Hemming Knits

I'm usually the last person to offer up advice on actual sewing techniques. No formal training, sloppy sewer and all that....

However, after a lot of trial and error (LOTs!), I thought I'd share with you how to hem knit fabric when you do not have access to the following:

1) Coverstitch machine
2) Taping or fusible interfacing for stabilizing (or if you are lazy like me, you don't feel like doing this)
3) Twin needles (if you have a very basic sewing machine)

First off, let me show you what can happen when you attempt to sew a regular hem on stretchy knit fabric:

Don't forget to use a ballpoint needle when sewing with knits. This needle has a blunt, rounded tip that slips between fibers rather than piercing them.

Here's what works for me, when hemming knits.

1) Overlock the edge.
Knits don't unravel, so you don't really need to serge the edges, but this is to stabilize the knit fabric so that there is less stretch as you sew.Before I had a serger, I used a wide zigzag stitch on my regular sewing machine, and trim the edge close to the zigzag. This creates the same effect as a serger, and also acts as a fabric stabilizer.

2) Pin.
Pin or baste the hem. The stretchier your fabric is, the more pins you will need.


3) Top Stitch
Sew using a straight stitch. The right side facing up when you are sewing. Take your time here. Go slow, and make sure you are not stretching the fabric as you sew.



And there you have it, an flat hem on stretch fabric.

Hope this helps someone out there.

Su